Camino de Tierra
Four hours south of the border is Punta San Jose. Head south of Ensenada, through dusty towns and on dirt roads, until you see the Lighthouse to the north, and the secret Danish cult compound to the south. The wild horses out number humans in this remote area. It's quiet and beautiful.
El Valle de Guadaloupe
Have lunch at Finca Altozano. Taste wines at Las Nubes and Alximia. Eat dinner at Deckman's or Laja. Just do it, trust me.
It's not uncommon to be the only surfer in the water on weekdays, even at the best spots.
If you're feeling adventurous, have the Sea Urchin Tostada at La Guerrerense in Ensenada. Post-surf, nothing hits the spot better than tacos at Taco Surf at K38. For a screaming' deal, head to Angel del Mar in Puerto Nuevo, where you can have lobster tail, beans and rice, tortillas, a margarita, and a shot of tequila for $15. For a dinner spot with good vibes, go to Calypso Cafe, where the food is good and the ocean view is amazing. They have live music on the weekends, with bands like Fast Eddie and the Baja Beach Bums playing Jimmy Buffet and the blues. Ask the owner Gil for his tequila that's better than 1942, he'll bring out an unmarked bottle, and probably have a shot with you, and maybe throw a round on the house if you're lucky.
There is a good selection of AirBnBs in Baja. There is this two story, 2 bedroom beach house for $100/night, 5 minutes north of the lobster village of Puerto Nuevo. You can stay at an AirBnB in the El Morro Surf Ranch walking distance to the surf breaks at K38 for $69/night. If you don't have SENTRI Lane to bypass the border traffic, stop by Bobby's or Rosarito Beach Hotel for a massage at the Spa, and grab a Fast Pass for the medical lane at the border.
"I thought of the wilderness we had left behind us, open to sea and sky, joyous in its plenitude and simplicity, perfect yet vulnerable, unaware of what is coming, defended by nothing, guarded by no one." - Edward Abby
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